Even in modern times, the rake still manages a “caddish blend of rebellion and classicism” in men’s fashion. Clive Derby’s label RAKE has opened an elegant store in Mayfair where men may shop for luxury bespoke and enjoy an evening with the Whiskey Society. There is even a magazine called The Rake, which many say is the successor to Men’s Vogue.
Not quite the thing in Regency times. Indeed, a rake could positively put one in a pucker with his manner of dress.
Take the hero of Heyer’s Cotillion, the Honorable Frederick Standen. He is a little intimidated by his cousin, an acknowledged rake. Jack Westruther flirts with his sister, the married Lady Buckhaven, and seems to enjoy the affections of his fiancée, Miss Kitty Charing. Freddy’s only defense, at the moment, is to decry Jack’s waistcoat:
“Jack,” said Lady Buckhaven, tilting her chin, “said he had never seen me look more becoming.”
“Sort of thing he would say,” responded Freddy, unimpressed. “Daresay you think he looks becoming in that devilish waistcoat he has on. Well, he don’t, that’s all! Take my word for it!”
Affronted, she exclaimed, “I never knew you to be so disagreeable! I have a very good mind not to invite Kitty to visit me!”
A rake wears a devilish waistcoat because he is careless about his dress, at least in the eyes of an Exquisite, like the elegant Mr. Standen.
John Mytton was also careless about his clothes. He had an abundance of them, as a rake must, and a peculiar disregard for their care and use:
“I once counted a hundred and fifty-two pairs of breeches and trousers, with an appropriate apportionment of coats, waistcoats, etc…. The clothes he would put on his person, just as they came to his hand, or as his wild fancy prompted him, and I have seen him nearly destroy a new coat at once wearing. His shoes and boots, all London make, and very light, were also destroyed in an equally summary manner, in his long walks over the country, through or over everything that came in his way.” — Nimrod, Memoirs of the Life of the Late John Mytton
What a man wears is a matter of character.
Recall Lizzie Bennet’s attempts to discern the character of Mr. Darcy in Austen’s Pride and Prejudice. The hero is a cold, reserved fellow–and his dress gives no clue as to resolve the varying accounts she has had of him.
We can only guess what Miss Bennet might have to say about Mytton’s character. Look at what the man is wearing.
Really the man was eccentric . I had always heard of him described as a sportsman or , one might say, sports mad, rather than being a rake. One would think that a rake would have more concern for his dress in order to impress the ladies. The sportsman who is horse, shooting, & hunting mad is impatient with details of dress. While the dandy thought dress was important, the Sportsman dismissed it with a flick of the hand because he knew that horses and rides, and bags were all that mattered and the birds or foxes didn’t care what one wore.
You bring up the crux of the matter, Nancy, as always. Without giving too much away, let us say that the rake’s very disregard of civilization’s trappings makes him a creature of interest in a refined society. Can he carry that too far? We shall see.
I think rakes might be eccentric, sports mad, etc. The rake’s “charm” impressed the ladies. The rake probably didn’t care what people thought, or he wouldn’t be a rake. Perhaps that was the allure of the rake. He seemed dangerous or forbidden and interesting.
You said it better than I could.